Day 13
Whilst yesterday was brilliant, it left me with an issue: I’d seen the vast majority of the city in one day, and had to find ways to enjoy the final two. Thankfully, today’s adventures took me further into the city and deeper into the heart of Louisiana.
I began by returning to the French Quarter; heading towards its edge, I walked into a vibrant, bustling market, filled with jazz players and a variety of people selling an even greater variety of things. Voodoo dolls, fruits and clothes were just a few of the objects up for sale. Tourists and natives buzzed around, frantically searching for the best deal. My curiosity took me through this human maze, through turnings and roads until eventually, I reached an opening. A crowd were gathered around a four-piece jazz band. At this moment, I was shown why the city is famous for jazz music. I have never seen nor heard music played so effortlessly, and with such enthusiasm and passion. The singing, the instruments…all played without sheets or prompts, carrying an easy, calming, pure tone. It was spectacular, and the crowd were enraptured and dancing along. Once the band had finished, I left the French Quarter and returned to my hostel.
But the day had only just begun. A few hours later, a bus arrived and whisked me off to the heart of Louisiana. I had arranged to go on a swamp tour, an exhilarating visit of the country’s watery jungle. On the journey, I passed the infamous Ninth Ward, the area most affected by Hurricane Katrina, and its dilapidated, damaged exteriors betrayed the impact of the event upon the community.
As we continued, the cities transformed into open roads, which then became rougher, more natural terrain. Eventually, the bus pulled up at a lodge by the water, and after a brief orientation, I boarded a small speedboat and headed into the heart of Louisiana’s swamp.
I was instantly entranced by the swamp’s beauty; the open water was flanked by large trees, which leaned over into the river, and led to a watery forest beyond which shielded the swamp from the outside world. The calm water, only moved by the ripples of the moving boat, was speckled gold by the dwindling sunlight. I was filled with excitement at seeing a new type of landscape, and as the boat began its journey through the procession of trees and deep into the heart of the swamp, I was enthralled by the mysterious, beautiful, calm surroundings.
We move further; the driver increases the speed, and suddenly, we are speeding through the swamp, water and wind flying into my face as we race through the reefs and alleys of the swamp. As we slow down, a head slowly emerges, and slowly glides towards us. The waves around it ripple. It’s an alligator, getting bigger and bigger as it approaches. Another one – no, two – follow it. Suddenly, the boat is encircled by alligators lurking below. The driver holds a sausage above the water – SNAP!! An alligator flies out of the water, snatching its meal and retreating into the depths. BANG! Another one rattles the boat, desperate for its share. For the next five minutes, we see alligators jump and dive out of the water in pursuit of food. Eventually, satisfied, the lurkers retreat. After this exhilarating experience, we head deeper into the watery forest, the trees hanging over the water, blocking the sunlight and covering us from the world beyond. I am surrounded by magnificent trees, creeks and narrow waterways, with the driver delicately navigating our way through them. Boars and alligators greet me, the latter lazily lying on a branch on the riverbank. As we glide through the heart of the swamp, I am amazed by its natural, undisturbed beauty.
Eventually, we make it out, and after speeding once more, return home. But my day hadn’t finished yet. Along with a group of friends that I made during the swamp tour, I return to the French Quarter at 1 am. The area is alive, filled with the cheers of revellers and the thunder of loud music. We visit the oldest tavern in the city, which reminded me of an old, pirate tavern, before eventually continuing on, soaking up the atmosphere of Bourbon Street. After a few hours of walking, we manage to make it back to the hostel at 3 am, thanks to a very reluctant taxi driver. Just one more day remained in the Big Easy…
Day 14
My magical time in New Orleans ended with a very relaxing, albeit uneventful day. I returned to the French Quarter once more, walking through the bustling market, before heading to the North. The streets became dustier, the houses more dilapidated. Beyond me was a grand cemetery, filled with elaborate, beautiful mausoleums and headstones. Yet another peculiar aspect of this beguiling city. Eventually, I reached the Louis Armstrong Park, serene in its tranquillity. A stream flowed through an area of walkways and endless green trees, a haven of quiet beauty in a magnificently chaotic environment. I could understand why Louis called it a wonderful world – the peace and natural wonders made this a beautiful location to visit.
After leaving the park, I said farewell to the spectacular chaos of the French Quarter, the area which never slept or ceased to amaze me, still filled with jazz players, revellers and street dancers. It was an area with an atmosphere that I shall never forget. I returned to the hostel, and prepared for the next adventure. After visiting four breathtaking environments, I was now headed to the West Coast of America, and the incredible sights of San Francisco.
Pursuit of Adventure: 2011-2014 